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Showing posts with label
Around The World
.
Show all posts
Showing posts with label
Around The World
.
Show all posts
Friday, October 8, 2010
Nepal - Durbar Square
Durbar Square is the old city heart of Kathmandu - it was here that the Royal Palace once stood. In fact, Durbar means Palace. While the royal family moved elsewhere around a century ago, the square retains its importance as a crossroads in the city. If you, like me, imagine one square, you are in for a surprise: Durbar Square consists of several squares, all linked by streets and alleys. All combined, the maze of squares and streets, alleys and quiet corners makes for a great destination to just wander around and explore. Getting lost here would be a major achievement even for those without a sense of direction, since the area is small enough. After exploring, you might want to just sit down and watch life pass by from one of the many temples with stairs.
Historically, Durbar Square was not only home to the old Royal Palace, but also the location for crowning ceremonies of kings. Nowadays, while there are still many temples and the old Royal Palace to see, the main function of Durbar Square seems to be a social one. Locals gather here to meet, to chat, I saw romantic couples on the stairs of the temples, families with kids playing in a quiet corner, but also people setting up stalls and selling all kinds of things. Apart from the "sights" of Durbar Square, it is one of the best places in Kathmandu to see the colourful Nepalis go about their lives.
Even though I had heard that there was an entrance fee to Durbar Square, I did not realize this was really the case until I approached from Pyaphal Tole. For non-Nepalis, the entrance fee needs to be paid at a booth on the street, which gives you access for the rest of the day. I then expected to enter a well-preserved square with free access to the temples and palace, but this was not the case. Much worse: you have to share the square with a lot of traffic coming from all sides; if you are not careful, you might be hit by one of the many vehicles crossing the square. Temples are under reconstruction, and I can well imagine that the fumes of traffic do a lot of harm. It is amazing that Durbar Square is not traffic-free; after all, it is a World Heritage Site, for which foreigners pay entrance fee.
More pictures of Durbar Square:
Nepal - Boudha Stupa
Inevitably, I knew what the stupa of Boudha would look like before I arrived. Still, when I walked the main street in Boudha I did not notice anything special. Only when I turned to the left, the stupa and the golden tower on top of it presented themselves to me. Even so, it was only when I arrived at the end of the alley that the entire stupa unfolded before my eyes. Yes, it was big, yes, it was crowded, and yes, I wanted to get on top! I walked clockwise around the stupa, and climbed several levels to the highest level where you are allowed to walk.
Actually, the Boudha stupa has nine levels, representing the World Mountain, or Neru - home of gods and centre of the cosmos. The levels represent the five elements. The stupa itself, whose original version was probably built in the 7th century, consists of three levels, accessible to the visitor. They symbolize Earth; two higher plinths symbolize water, and the golden tower above that bear the eyes of the omnipresent god. Between each of these eyes, in three colours, you can find a third eye, the symbol of wisdom. Stair-like steps leading up to the top represent the steps to enlightenment; the pyramidal shape symbolizing fire. The canopy on top stands for air, and the spire defining the top of the structure stands for the sphere.
Obviously, as can be seen in the amount of people circumambulating the stupa on the kora at ground leve, the stupa is of significance to Tibetan buddhists, who have established a large community in Bodhnath or Boudha - many of them fled Tibet after the failed uprising in 1959. At the same time, it is a gathering place for many people, and indeed, is as pleasant a place as any to while away your time. The sun has unobstructed access to the sides of the stupa, and, with a little caution for the sloping sides of the stupa, you can sit virtually anywhere. As the sun goes down and the colours of the stupa become warmer, there are more people around. The prayer flags flying above your head, the murmur coming from below, the friendly eyes of the omnipresent god that never even blink looking down on you, make for a peaceful experience, whether you are a buddhist or not.
More pictures of Boudha Stupa:
Nepal - Nepali people
Visitors come to Nepal for the nature, the culture, and perhaps the food, but another reason to visit this Himalayan kingdom could as well be for the people. By and large, they are very friendly and open towards the visitor, and even in the most touristy places in Kathmandu (and they are very touristy!), I did not have a bad experience (not even with taxi drivers), or a show of the bad influence of tourism on the local population. On the contrary.
The first impression of the Nepalis was very positive; they also reminded me of Indians, even though some of the Nepalis can look almost Chinese. It was often a pleasure to just sit down somewhere and look at people going about with their life. Especially the women add colour to public life: many wear those beautiful, elegant saris in bright colours, often combining various colours: red and green, blue and green, yellow and orange... Seeing a group of women in saris walk around was like watching a parade of brightness right under your eyes.
The sari fashion might disappear overtime, as many young people are wearing fashionable clothes, accompanied by handbags or sunglasses that are not Nepali at all. It is fascinating to see how the traditionally dressed people mix with the avant la garde youth into a curious exotic cocktail of colours and styles. What Nepali all seem to have in common, is that smiling turns any face into a cheerful and beautiful display of contrasting white and brown. But Nepalis can also be dedicated to what they are doing, as is proven by yelling rickshaw cyclists, beggars approaching you in the street, saddhus with brightly painted faces asking for a picture, touts trying to sell you a trekking tour or the quiet guys whisperingly asking if you are interested in buying drugs, a waitress in a restaurant doing what she can to give you the best food...
Thursday, October 7, 2010
Nepal - Garden of Dreams
After having traveled for weeks on end, with lots of adventures, sights that made a deep impression on me and left a lasting trace in my mind, after hassles and noise, after being active from early morning to late evening, and after a few days in the hectic pleasant chaos of Kathmandu, I longed for a moment of peace, a moment of rest, a moment of inactivity. I needed a break. When I learnt about the Garden of Dreams, or the Swapna Bagaicha, I knew that would be exactly what I needed. Its central location in Kathmandu made it even easier to decide.
The entrance on Tridevi Marg looks small, and conceals what can be found just behind the high wall surrounding the Garden of Dreams. Once inside, as the noise of cars and motorbikes, the voices and yells, disappear behind your back, you walk into an oasis of peace. Suddenly, you realise that there are actually birds singing, you hear the murmur of water, no one tries to sell drugs or trekking tours: you are, in fact, by yourself! What is more: the main relaxation areas in the Garden of Dreams provides cushions to install yourself on the grass. I could not resist, lied down and closed my eyes.
As I was blocking the visual pleasures of the Garden of Dreams, I could still discern the street noise, but it had become a background, almost monotonous noise, which I somehow filtered out. It took little time to relax completely, and I thoroughly enjoyed the silence and the very pleasant atmosphere of the surroundings. When I got up again, I made a tour of the Garden of Dreams. Much more than just a garden, it has been painstakenly restored - the garden was started by Field Marshal Kaiser Shamser in the 1920s, but deteriorated after his death. They have been opened in 2006, work is still in progress, but already now, you cannot miss the combination of overall design and the details that make this garden stand out. Small pavilions, sculptures, waterfalls, exotic plants and flowers, ponds, circular gates, steps integrated into the lawn. A highly romantic place, from which it is difficult to leave.
Nepal
Garden of Dreams
After having traveled for weeks on end, with lots of adventures, sights that made a deep impression on me and left a lasting trace in my mind, after hassles and noise, after being active from early morning to late evening, and after a few days in the hectic pleasant chaos of Kathmandu, I longed for a moment of peace, a moment of rest, a moment of inactivity. I needed a break. When I learnt about the Garden of Dreams, or the Swapna Bagaicha, I knew that would be exactly what I needed. Its central location in Kathmandu made it even easier to decide.
The entrance on Tridevi Marg looks small, and conceals what can be found just behind the high wall surrounding the Garden of Dreams. Once inside, as the noise of cars and motorbikes, the voices and yells, disappear behind your back, you walk into an oasis of peace. Suddenly, you realise that there are actually birds singing, you hear the murmur of water, no one tries to sell drugs or trekking tours: you are, in fact, by yourself! What is more: the main relaxation areas in the Garden of Dreams provides cushions to install yourself on the grass. I could not resist, lied down and closed my eyes.
As I was blocking the visual pleasures of the Garden of Dreams, I could still discern the street noise, but it had become a background, almost monotonous noise, which I somehow filtered out. It took little time to relax completely, and I thoroughly enjoyed the silence and the very pleasant atmosphere of the surroundings. When I got up again, I made a tour of the Garden of Dreams. Much more than just a garden, it has been painstakenly restored - the garden was started by Field Marshal Kaiser Shamser in the 1920s, but deteriorated after his death. They have been opened in 2006, work is still in progress, but already now, you cannot miss the combination of overall design and the details that make this garden stand out. Small pavilions, sculptures, waterfalls, exotic plants and flowers, ponds, circular gates, steps integrated into the lawn. A highly romantic place, from which it is difficult to leave.
More pictures of Garden of Dreams:
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Durbar Square is the old city heart of Kathmandu - it was here that the Royal Palace once stood. In fact, Durbar means Palace. While the royal family moved elsewhere around a century ago, the square retains its importance as a crossroads in the city. If you, like me, imagine one square, you are in for a surprise: Durbar Square consists of several squares, all linked by streets and alleys. All combined, the maze of squares and streets, alleys and quiet corners makes for a great destination to just wander around and explore. Getting lost here would be a major achievement even for those without a sense of direction, since the area is small enough. After exploring, you might want to just sit down and watch life pass by from one of the many temples with stairs.
Historically, Durbar Square was not only home to the old Royal Palace, but also the location for crowning ceremonies of kings. Nowadays, while there are still many temples and the old Royal Palace to see, the main function of Durbar Square seems to be a social one. Locals gather here to meet, to chat, I saw romantic couples on the stairs of the temples, families with kids playing in a quiet corner, but also people setting up stalls and selling all kinds of things. Apart from the "sights" of Durbar Square, it is one of the best places in Kathmandu to see the colourful Nepalis go about their lives.
Even though I had heard that there was an entrance fee to Durbar Square, I did not realize this was really the case until I approached from Pyaphal Tole. For non-Nepalis, the entrance fee needs to be paid at a booth on the street, which gives you access for the rest of the day. I then expected to enter a well-preserved square with free access to the temples and palace, but this was not the case. Much worse: you have to share the square with a lot of traffic coming from all sides; if you are not careful, you might be hit by one of the many vehicles crossing the square. Temples are under reconstruction, and I can well imagine that the fumes of traffic do a lot of harm. It is amazing that Durbar Square is not traffic-free; after all, it is a World Heritage Site, for which foreigners pay entrance fee.
Inevitably, I knew what the stupa of Boudha would look like before I arrived. Still, when I walked the main street in Boudha I did not notice anything special. Only when I turned to the left, the stupa and the golden tower on top of it presented themselves to me. Even so, it was only when I arrived at the end of the alley that the entire stupa unfolded before my eyes. Yes, it was big, yes, it was crowded, and yes, I wanted to get on top! I walked clockwise around the stupa, and climbed several levels to the highest level where you are allowed to walk.
Actually, the Boudha stupa has nine levels, representing the World Mountain, or Neru - home of gods and centre of the cosmos. The levels represent the five elements. The stupa itself, whose original version was probably built in the 7th century, consists of three levels, accessible to the visitor. They symbolize Earth; two higher plinths symbolize water, and the golden tower above that bear the eyes of the omnipresent god. Between each of these eyes, in three colours, you can find a third eye, the symbol of wisdom. Stair-like steps leading up to the top represent the steps to enlightenment; the pyramidal shape symbolizing fire. The canopy on top stands for air, and the spire defining the top of the structure stands for the sphere.
Obviously, as can be seen in the amount of people circumambulating the stupa on the kora at ground leve, the stupa is of significance to Tibetan buddhists, who have established a large community in Bodhnath or Boudha - many of them fled Tibet after the failed uprising in 1959. At the same time, it is a gathering place for many people, and indeed, is as pleasant a place as any to while away your time. The sun has unobstructed access to the sides of the stupa, and, with a little caution for the sloping sides of the stupa, you can sit virtually anywhere. As the sun goes down and the colours of the stupa become warmer, there are more people around. The prayer flags flying above your head, the murmur coming from below, the friendly eyes of the omnipresent god that never even blink looking down on you, make for a peaceful experience, whether you are a buddhist or not.
Visitors come to Nepal for the nature, the culture, and perhaps the food, but another reason to visit this Himalayan kingdom could as well be for the people. By and large, they are very friendly and open towards the visitor, and even in the most touristy places in Kathmandu (and they are very touristy!), I did not have a bad experience (not even with taxi drivers), or a show of the bad influence of tourism on the local population. On the contrary.
The first impression of the Nepalis was very positive; they also reminded me of Indians, even though some of the Nepalis can look almost Chinese. It was often a pleasure to just sit down somewhere and look at people going about with their life. Especially the women add colour to public life: many wear those beautiful, elegant saris in bright colours, often combining various colours: red and green, blue and green, yellow and orange... Seeing a group of women in saris walk around was like watching a parade of brightness right under your eyes.
The sari fashion might disappear overtime, as many young people are wearing fashionable clothes, accompanied by handbags or sunglasses that are not Nepali at all. It is fascinating to see how the traditionally dressed people mix with the avant la garde youth into a curious exotic cocktail of colours and styles. What Nepali all seem to have in common, is that smiling turns any face into a cheerful and beautiful display of contrasting white and brown. But Nepalis can also be dedicated to what they are doing, as is proven by yelling rickshaw cyclists, beggars approaching you in the street, saddhus with brightly painted faces asking for a picture, touts trying to sell you a trekking tour or the quiet guys whisperingly asking if you are interested in buying drugs, a waitress in a restaurant doing what she can to give you the best food...
After having traveled for weeks on end, with lots of adventures, sights that made a deep impression on me and left a lasting trace in my mind, after hassles and noise, after being active from early morning to late evening, and after a few days in the hectic pleasant chaos of Kathmandu, I longed for a moment of peace, a moment of rest, a moment of inactivity. I needed a break. When I learnt about the Garden of Dreams, or the Swapna Bagaicha, I knew that would be exactly what I needed. Its central location in Kathmandu made it even easier to decide.
The entrance on Tridevi Marg looks small, and conceals what can be found just behind the high wall surrounding the Garden of Dreams. Once inside, as the noise of cars and motorbikes, the voices and yells, disappear behind your back, you walk into an oasis of peace. Suddenly, you realise that there are actually birds singing, you hear the murmur of water, no one tries to sell drugs or trekking tours: you are, in fact, by yourself! What is more: the main relaxation areas in the Garden of Dreams provides cushions to install yourself on the grass. I could not resist, lied down and closed my eyes.
As I was blocking the visual pleasures of the Garden of Dreams, I could still discern the street noise, but it had become a background, almost monotonous noise, which I somehow filtered out. It took little time to relax completely, and I thoroughly enjoyed the silence and the very pleasant atmosphere of the surroundings. When I got up again, I made a tour of the Garden of Dreams. Much more than just a garden, it has been painstakenly restored - the garden was started by Field Marshal Kaiser Shamser in the 1920s, but deteriorated after his death. They have been opened in 2006, work is still in progress, but already now, you cannot miss the combination of overall design and the details that make this garden stand out. Small pavilions, sculptures, waterfalls, exotic plants and flowers, ponds, circular gates, steps integrated into the lawn. A highly romantic place, from which it is difficult to leave.
